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places to eat in Rome (an updated list)
destinations, travelThis is an updated version of my original A paper tablecloth guide to dining in Rome written for friends, friends of friends, friends of instagram pals and anyone else who happens to ask 'where should we eat?'.
Rome has a veritable wealth…

Artisans & Antiques: PUGLIA trips 2022
destinations, travelAt the heel of the Italian boot, Puglia is a land of wild beauty where the stark rocky coastline seems to fall into the sea; a land of ancient olive groves and carpets of flowers, where the light dazzles against whitewashed walls and pale…

roads less travelled and unique places to stay
destinations, travelMay 2018. It is mid afternoon when we pull into the farm hotel. A deep calm blankets the property and there is no sign of anyone apart from a French couple that pad across the courtyard toward the pool. The tractors have been shut down…

Rome, where to lay your head in the eternal city
destinations, travelAlice, where should we stay in Rome?
This city, like most capitals, is a jungle of where to sleep options, trickier to navigate than Piazza Venezia at rush hour, so I generally try to avoid this question.
The accommodation landscape has…

Itineraries. Ceramics and the South: a pilgrimage to Grottaglie
destinations, market guides, travelThe sun climbs as we leave the soft olive hillsides of the Valle D'Itria, where we are staying, for the red plains of the alto-Salento, and the road cuts through carpets of primitivo vines as it reaches out toward the almost irresistible waters…

low tech Italian classics to stuff into your suitcase
market guides, travelMade in Italy is renowned for shoes and bags, fast cars, alta moda and serious furniture design. Hiding behind the big names and famous brands are the artisans; leatherworkers, furniture designers, glassblowers, mosaicists, shoemakers; craftsmen…

the paper table cloth guide to dining in Rome
destinations, travelA writer I do not know personally, but whose writing I very much like for its directness, recently wrote of a Roman trattoria; why can't we have more of this unpretentious shit in Sydney? She hit the nail on the proverbial head because Roman…