Rome, where to lay your head in the eternal city

Alice, where should we stay in Rome?

This city, like most capitals, is a jungle of where to sleep options, trickier to navigate than Piazza Venezia at rush hour, so I generally try to avoid this question.

The accommodation landscape has changed vastly since the Pandemic.  There are far fewer AirBnBs, but if you are looking to self cater I still suggest starting here.   There are lots of new hotels (like The Hoxton in Parioli), but I would recommend reading the articles and posts of travel journalists like Erika Firpo who are far more abreast of the boutique end of the spectrum than I.  (Erika also has a digital magazine Ciao Bella where you will find travel ideas for all over the boot).

Even if you don’t find something on this little list, remember that you can book direct for most hotels and many apartments.  Search first on booking, then find the hotel’s own site and book direct. (And, a little request, if you found this post useful, please take a minute to comment below, or share my content on Instagram with a friend!)

hotels: 

Hotel Donna Camilla Savelli  is a restored convent right under the Gianicolo hill in Trastevere. Luxuriously appointed rooms, heavenly courtyard for a cheeky pre or post dinner drink, amazing location.

Hotel Santa Maria in Trastevere , another hotel in what was once a convent, with a courtyard filled with orange trees where guests can have breakfast or a coffee.

a very cool hostel with private rooms:

The Beehive was started by Linda Martinez and Steve Brenner in 1999.  Since then their hostel has become a favourite stop for solo and women travelers, couples and families who travel outside the box.  I know a long list of people who love this place and go back for the friendly welcome, the eco friendly philosophy and the fresh organic offerings at the breakfast cafe (which is also open for dinner and to outside guests).  Book direct or email: info@the-beehive.com

Rooms and apartments in Monti and Borgo Pio:

I heard about Urbana 47  from a friend with an agriturismo in Umbria who stays here sometimes when in Rome.  Via Urbana, and the Monti neighborhood in general, is perhaps the hippest part of Rome.  They also have beautiful little loft style apartments in the Borgo Pio neighborhood neat the Vatican.

an apartments in trastevere:

Ginevra’s Apartment in the heart of Trastevere is a bright restored 1 bedroom (with extra sofa bed) in perhaps the best part of Trastevere between Via Lungara, the Botanical Gardens and the river.  ginevramassari@hotmail.com

convents: In perhaps the most scenic street in Monteverde Vecchio, Via Poerio, is the Casa per Ferie Virgen del Pilar, run by a Spanish order with various room options.

A less central position but across the road from the studio in Monteverde is the convent with rooms of the Suore Serve di Maria Addolorata di Nocera.  Rooms here are cheap and spartan.