Alice, where should we stay in Rome?

This city has become a jungle of where to sleep options, trickier to navigate than Piazza Venezia at rush hour, so I spend most of my time avoiding this question.

Whilst bookingairbnb and co. have brought us travel hungry 21st century humans incredible choice at the swipe of a screen, they are also to thank for the wild price based competition happening out there.  This in my mind does little for either the proprietors of accommodation, or the travelers themselves, not to mention the staff working to clean/launder/service the aforementioned.  It’s a race to the bottom that no one is winning.

This list is not (just) a rant about the market driven practices of huge multinationals, but more a response to requests I get from both friends and people coming to Rome to do classes at the studio. This is a tiny assortment of hotels, apartments and a pretty cool hostel for people wanting to cut out some of the virtual time spent trawling the big sites.  And for anyone that’s wondering, I appreciate what internet companies have given us in terms of choice, but just feel a little let down by their inability to manage more ethically what they have become.

And even if you don’t find something on this list remember that you can book direct for most hotels and many apartments.  Search first on booking, then find the hotel’s own site and book direct.  Hotels need every one of our travel euros.



Hotel Donna Camilla Savelli  is a restored convent right under the Gianicolo hill in Trastevere. Luxuriously appointed rooms, heavenly courtyard for a cheeky pre or post dinner drink, amazing location.

Hotel Santa Maria in Trastevere , another hotel in what was once a convent, with a courtyard filled with orange trees where guests can have breakfast or a coffee.

a very cool hostel with private rooms:

The Beehive was started by Linda Martinez and Steve Brenner in 1999.  Since then their hostel has become a favourite stop for solo and women travelers, couples and families who travel outside the box.  I know a long list of people who love this place and go back for the friendly welcome, the eco friendly philosophy and the fresh organic offerings at the breakfast cafe (which is also open for dinner and to outside guests).  Book direct or email:

Rooms and apartments in Monti and Borgo Pio:

I heard about Urbana 47  from a friend with an agriturismo in Umbria who stays here sometimes when in Rome.  Via Urbana, and the Monti neighborhood in general, is perhaps the hippest part of Rome.  They also have beautiful little loft style apartments in the Borgo Pio neighborhood neat the Vatican.

apartments in trastevere:  I know the owners of the following apartments where you will be reliably welcomed (waiting for keys is one of the downsides of self catering accommodation) and well looked after.   Look at the photos on the following links but feel free to contact the owners direct (they both speak perfect English!)

Ginevra’s Apartment in the heart of Trastevere is a bright restored 1 bedroom (with extra sofa bed) in perhaps the best part of Trastevere between Via Lungara, the Botanical Gardens and the river.

Evalina’s Lovely Flat in Trastevere is a pretty, and characteristic apartment in the gorgeous part of Trastevere around Via della Lungara.  Characteristic but much quieter than the centre of Trastevere, a bridge stroll away from the historic centre and well served with a couple of little bars and alimentari shops.


5 replies
  1. Thomas
    Thomas says:

    Hi Alice

    great post – and you are so right – you should take out the new B&B by Urbana 47 – they have 4 great rooms above the restaurants or apartments in Borgo Pio. Have only tried the B&B in Urbana – great rooms and breakfast in the restaurants with great coffee.



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